Hong Kong Snapshot (18) – Lei Yue Mun, spot of seafood dining in tourists’ eyes, lonelyless in my eyes 香港隨拍(18) – 鯉魚門，遊客眼中是海鮮天堂，在我眼中卻是孤寂的訴說

鯉魚門，相信對每一位曾到訪香港的旅客來說絕對毫不陌生，因為世界每一本關於香港的旅遊書都必定會有鯉魚門的介紹，它是香港一個著名品嘗海鮮的地方。每天晚上，鯉魚門都走滿了希望一嘗著名海鮮的遊客和旅遊團，不過在我今天到訪鯉魚門過後，我感受到鯉魚門的一絲孤寂，時代變遷的孤寂。
I believe all tourists of Hong Kong know the name of Lei Yue Mun, because the name is mentioned in all tourist guide of HK in the world. It is famous of seafood dining. Every night, there are full of visitors of seafood dining in Lei Yue Mun. But after I visited the place today, I feel a little bit lonely of the place.

今天的鯉魚門在遊客眼中是一個海鮮天堂，但其實歷史至今，鯉魚門一直是被遺棄的罪惡之地。鯉魚門早在明朝期間已有地圖記載，當時是船隻進入維多利亞港的記認之處，由於鯉魚門與大陸之間隔著一個大山 (魔鬼山)，故一直是杳無人煙之處，直到清朝，鄭成功部下，著名海盗鄭一的父親鄭連昌佔據了鯉魚門，更建了一所天后宮作巢穴，開始了鯉魚門的罪惡之始。
Today, Lei Yue Mun is a spot of seafood dining. But I may say, in the history, Lei Yue Mun is a forgotten town of sin and evil. The name of Lei Yue Mun was first mentioned in the Ming dynasty (around 1500AD). It is a sign for boats going into the Victoria Harbor. Lei Yue Mun was separated from the mainland by a mountain, so there were no people living until famous pirate Cheng Lin Cheung, father of Cheng I, occupied the place. The sin of Lei Yue Mun started.

鯉魚門在明朝粵大記地圖 Lei Yue Mun in a map made in 1500AD (photo source: Wikipedia)

鄭一部下張保仔被招安後，廣東沿海海盗活動開始被打壓，有三位客家人來到了鯉魚門，看中了鯉魚門開採石礦的潛力，就定居下來建立了三家村。當年鯉魚門的石礦開採十分成功，就連遠至荷蘭都有客人，但同時也引來一班販毒者及釀私酒者，因為鮮魚門對外交通不便，尤如一個無人看管之地，故成為罪犯們的天堂，吸毒、私酒、走私，無處不在，鯉魚門成為了被遺棄的存在。
After the pirates’ activities were controlled by the government, 3 Hakkas arrived Lei Yue Mun and settled down. They started the business of Quarrying. The business was successful. There were even clients from the netherland. But at the same time, because of the inconvenience of the transportation, the place attracted a lot of drug traffickers, bootleggers and smugglers.

加勒比海盜中嘯風船長的原型就是海盜鄭一
Cheng I, origin of character Captain Sao Feng in the film Pirates of the Caribean: At World’s End (photo source: film shot)

但罪犯的存在卻又帶來商機，越來越多的餐廳食肆在此營業以照顧他們的飲食需要，到了1968年，政府開始管制火藥的使用，鯉魚門的石礦場終被遺棄，不獲續牌，幸而鯉魚門的海鮮應運而生，成為主要的經營。
The criminals brought a new business. More and more restaurants were opened to take care of their needs. In 1968, the HK government started control the use of gunpowder. The quarries were banned in Lei Yue Mun and the place started to development of business of seafood restaurant.

今天的鯉魚門看似熱鬧非常，但當我走進去親身體會，罪惡雖不復見，但孤寂感卻十分強烈。鯉魚門距離最接近的鐵路站約10分鐘路程，中間隔著一個工廠區，成為了一個突兀的存在。走出鐵路站，眼前是濛濛細雨，夾雜著工廠們噴出的廢氣，那是一種模糊的灰，捉不緊，摸不透，雨傘為我擋住了雨，同時擋住了天，我突感沒有前路，盡是孤獨。
Today, Lei Yue Mun always seems to be lively. But when I visited Lei Yue Mun today, although I couldn’t see the sin in the history, I got a strong feeling of loneliness. It takes around 10 mins walk from the train station to Lei Yue Mun going through a factory area. When I came out from the train station, it muzzled. The rain together with the exhaust gas from the factories, I saw something grey, something blurred. I couldn’t catch it. I couldn’t hold it. At the same time, my umbellar blocked me the rain, but also the sky. Suddenly I felt no way, no road in front. It’s only loneiness.

來到鯉魚門，兩條鮮紅的鯉魚像迎接著我，但卻與周遭暗淡的顏色格格不入。我走到海邊，眼前是一個避風港，泊滿了大小的漁船，左方遠處就是鯉魚門和三家村，但我印象最深刻的，是那兩個巨大但破舊的招牌，它們早已失去了應有的功能，但仍然無人拆掉，寂寞的豎立著，是在等待著別人的留意，能得以光榮地功成身退嗎？
Arriving Lei Yue Mun, two bright red carps were welcoming me (Lei Yue means carp in Chinese). But the color didn’t catch the grey color around. Going to the seaside, there was a haven, I saw Lei Yue Mun and Sam Ka Tsuen (a village beside Lei Yue Mun) through the haven. There were two big old signboards, losing their original function. But they are still standing there. Are they there to get noticed from people that they still have their function, or waiting to by buried by us?

進入鯉魚們海鮮檔，一檔又一檔海鮮餐廳展示著新鮮的海鮮，但由於時間尚早，卻不見任何客人，與晚上的熱鬧相互映照，店主只以魚、蝦、蟹們相伴，然後在晚上狠狠把它們宰掉。店主們對我視而不見，可能見到我的照相機吧，只把我當成遊客，或掃著手機，或看著魚兒游動，任由我隨意拍照，這一刻我很想知道他們心中所想，每晚的鯉魚門異常熱鬧，一客又一客的食客穿梭遊走，之後，酒去人空，只剩下他們默默打掃餐廳，然後第二天一早回來照顧海鮮，等待著晚上的虛假熱鬧再臨。我不是他們，我不敢妄言他們的快樂與不快樂，可能他們賺很多呢！但是，這日復日的守候，熱鬧與孤寂的交替，此刻的我實在不敢再想下去。
Going into the restaurant area, I saw restaurants showing their seafood. As it was daytime, I couldn’t see any costumers, the restaurant keepers only had those seafood staying with them, and they will kill the seafood at night. They ignored me, just letting me take photos. I really wanted to know what they though at that moment. Day by day, they watched the restaurant lively at night, and deserted, repeating and repeating. I saw the loneliness in their eyes.

鯉魚們的晚上 Lei Yue Mun at night (photo source: faithtravel)

日間的鯉魚門 Lei Yen Mun during daytime

穿過一家家的海鮮餐廳，我看見了幾家販賣餅食的小店，這些都是香港八九十年代很常見的傳統餅食，現在我已不記得它們的名字了，但還記得小時候手捧這些餅食的滿足，我從沒想過會在這裡見到這些已經消失了的餅食，到底是這些老店們還在堅持保留這些傳統餅食，還是現代社會把它們遺棄在此？
Going through the restaurant area, I saw some small shops selling HK tradition cakes. All these cakes were common in 1980s to 1990s, but not today. I couldn’t remember the name of those cakes. I was only surprised I could still see the cakes here. I would like to ask, were the shops still trying hard to keep these traditional cakes, or the traditional cakes were abandoned here.

還記得它們的名字嗎？ My friends from HK, can you still remember their names?

穿過鯉魚門，進入三家村前的小路，眼前是一間已關閉的小學，眼前的籃球場空寂無人，兩個籃球架默然聳立，似是申訴著它還存在的功用，但已無人理會。走過學校，見到地上一個跳飛機 (跳房子) 的格子，我不知現在的小孩還是否知道這遊戲，我幻想著三家村當年的熱鬧，同時想著這些格子，上一次有小孩願意踏在它們上面的時候，是何時。
Passing Lei Yue Mun it’s the way to Sam Ka Tsuen. There was a primary school already closed. A basketball court was still here, seemed telling me it’s still functional, but no one cared. Then, I saw a hopscotch court. I didn’t know if the kids now still know this game. I was think the last time there was kids stepping on the court, was how long ago.

然後我見到一個像是小碼頭的地方，有幾個人在這裡釣魚，在他們旁邊是一個燈塔，這燈塔在以前有著重要的功用，為海上的船隻導航，可惜完成使命後，已被人遺忘，繼續棲身於這孤寂之處，默默控訴著它從前的風光。走回大道，有一棵許願樹，許願樹是中國的傳統，相傳人們將願望寫在寶牒上，再拋到樹上，願望就會實現，不過，在這棵許願樹上，我見不到任何一隻寶牒。
There was a place seems like a little pier. Some people were fishing. And there was a lighthouse. The lighthouse had finished its mission. But no one care and left it standing alone. And then, there was a wishing tree. In Chinese tradition, if you write your wish on a thing called “Bao Die” and throw it on the tree, your wish will become true. Unfortunately, I couldn’t see any “Bai Die” on the tree.

踏進三家村，首先見到的是一個個信箱，對，三家村是沒有地址的。以前的村民都要走到市區的公共信箱收信，直到慈善團體贊助了這信箱，他們才免於舟車勞頓，我不禁懷疑，為何政府沒有給他們一個正式地址？政府也遺忘了他們嗎？
Entering Sam Ka Tsuen, the first thing in my sight was letter boxes. I wanted to tell that, there is no formal address for Sam Ka Tsuen. People in the past needed to go to the public letter box in the urban area to get their letters, until a charity group built the letter boxes here. I didn’t understand why the government didn’t give this village a formal address. Does the government forget this place?

三家村是香港在市區難得租金便宜的地方，距鐵路站只有十數分鐘路程，但卻沒有很多人居住，現在逗留在三家村的，大多都是新移民到港，還未在香港擁有穩定收入的人們。走到三家村的盡處，也是我這次一行的終點，是一座天后宮。天后宮有一個很獨特的存在，就是它們都是記錄著香港原來的海岸線的記認，因為天后是漁民信奉的天神，所以所有的天后官當初都建立在海邊。因為填海，現在香港遺下的天后宮都已隱沒有內陸，只餘下這在香港最邊緣的天后宮，原因是這裡是香港維多利亞港唯一沒有經歷過填海的地方。在吋金尺土的香港，我們竟仍能遇到沒有遇到填海的地方，我感到慶幸之餘，也感到淡淡的憂傷，這天后宮記載著這地方的孤寂，社會好像在嘗試保留這地方的原始，但我卻覺得，社會忘記了這地方。
My final destination was a Tin Hau Temple. Tin Hau is the god of fishermen in China. There is a special existence of the Tin Hau Temples in HK. They record the original coastline of HK because all the Tin Hau Temples were built along the coastline. Today, all the Tin Hau Temples were already hide in the city. Only this Tin Hau Temple is still along the coast. HK lacks of land and the whole coastline of HK had been under reclamation. Only this place keeps it’s coast. I felt lonely for this place. The society seems trying to keep of original of the place, but I felt the society forgets this place.

距離天后宮不遠處，有一家叫「國寶」的小店，主要出售古董字畫，這裡收藏著一塊瑰寶，康熙55年的第一版康熙字典，但我相信我不說，還真沒有多少人知道。本想來朝聖一下，卻見重門深鎖，是的，又真的有幾多人會重視一本數百年前推出的字典，縱然他是一位皇帝修編的，倒不如閉門自賞。
There was a small shop called “國寶” (national treasure) selling antiques. There was a treasure in the shop, which is the first edition of Kangxi Dictionary published in 1716. I wanted to take a look but the shop was closed. Yes, no one care such a treasure. Why does the shop need to show it to us?

回去的途中，有幾隻小狗對我瘋狂的吠著，看來這裡已很久沒有陌生人到訪了，走過三家村，回到鯉魚門，我又見到一隻小狗，它卻對我十分好奇似的，走到我腳邊嗅著我的氣味，我忍不住拍下它的照片。
When leaving Sam Ka Tsuen, some dogs kept barking at me. Seemed there was no stranger in this place for long time already. Back to Lei Yue Mun, a dog was curiously of me and kept smelling me. I took a picture of it.

人是有趣的生活，我一直相信，新的環境，能改變人的心情，但原來，不同的心情，亦能改變人對一個環境的看法。我相信從沒有人會這鯉魚門這個海鮮勝地帶著這樣一股的孤寂，憂愁，但，我今天卻是這樣想著，不知為何，今天的我是那麼多愁善感。
Human Being is interesting. I always believe a new environment can change one man. And today, I found that different moods can change the view of a man to a place also. I believe no one can have the same feeling as me to this famous spot of seafood dining. But today, I got this sad and lonely feeling.

我相信，鯉魚門仍是大家眼中的海鮮天堂，如果你們有機會到訪香港，不要錯過這裡的海鮮，食，是人的享受，當大餐放在眼前，嘗試放下憂愁，盡情享受吧！
But I believe, Lei Yue Mun is still one of the best place for you to enjoy seafood. When you visit HK, don’t miss this place.

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謝謝你能抽空閱讀這篇文章，我平日喜歡分享香港的故事，希望大家多多支持，我會繼續努力！

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