Shangri-la for the Mature Digital Nomad - Kota Kinabalu, Sabah
Shangri-la for the Mature Digital Nomad
Mature Digital Nomads who are seeking a peaceful corner of the globe to setup shop on a temporary basis would be wise to consider Borneo. While not the ideal spot for the younger crowd who thrive on exciting nightlife of the more glamorous ports of call, the mature digital nomads who seek world class facilities, peace and quiet, safety, wide selection of restaurant and some history thrown into the mix will not go wrong considering Kota Kinabalu, Sabah.
It would be difficult to find a place outside the Polar Regions of the globe which is as difficult to get to as Borneo. Traveling from New York or London it will take the better part of two days from wheels up until you walk out onto the tarmac into the warmth of the South China Sea, but I can assure you it is worth the plane ride. It is precisely this off-the-beaten track location which discourages the masses, and keeps the beaches and forest pristine.
Sun set at Kota Kinabalu Boardwalk
Borneo is home to three countries: Malaysia, Indonesia and the Sultanate of Brunei. It is shaped like a kidney bean with the dimple facing north, is home to two Malaysian States: Sabah to the northeast and Sarawak to the southeast occupy the Northern portion of the island. The Sultanate of Brunei is tucked between them facing north into the South China Sea. Indonesia occupies the Southern two thirds of Borneo facing the Java Sea to the south and Celebes Sea to the east. In the middle is the world’s largest remaining untouched rain forest home to the elusive orangutan and pygmy elephants who still roam wild.
Kota Kinabalu is the largest city in Sabah and offers every amenity imaginable. Flights are plentiful from Kuala Lumpur, Singapore and even direct connections to Hong Kong. Airfares are very reasonable, as is the case throughout all of Southeast Asia. English is widely spoken and Sabahans are extraordinarily friendly and welcoming. They love to talk with foreigners. Wifi service is excellent, plentiful and inexpensive. Prepaid SIM cards with data plans are very reasonable.
Accommodations range from top tier hotels: Shangri-La Tanjung Aru and Rasa Ria with its’ 3 km long private beach, Marriott , Hyatt, Hilton, and to excellent Airbnb accommodations for longer stays.
Sun set from the Marriott Hotel Roof Top Bar
Down loading the Grab Taxi app on your mobile will give you access to convenient and very inexpensive taxi fares throughout town and beyond. It is rare you will encounter a fare larger than $2USD including tip.
There is a rich World War II history involving Sabah and the neighboring island of Labuan. As the Allies began their push south through the Philippines, the Japanese evacuated approximately 2,500 Australian and New Zealand Prisoners of War south to Sandakan. These prisoners were forced on a series of marches from Sandakan across the island towards Jessleton, current day Kota Kinabalu, but they never made it that far. Of the approximate 2,500 prisoners who left Sandakan in three separate groups only 189 finally arrived to what became known as “The Final Camp” located outside the town of Ranau. Within six weeks their number had dwindled to only 32. On August 1, 1945 seventeen of these prisoners were executed, leaving only fifteen survivors. Then on August 27, 1945, twelve days after the end of the war, tragically the final fifteen prisoners were executed. To this day, Australian and New Zealand school children make an annual trip to the memorials in Ranau and Labuan to leave flowers and notes to these fallen heroes.
The Final Camp was built along the river in the valley below
There were only six survivors who all escaped along the march. Sabahans offered sanctuary to the escaped prisoners of war even knowing that if caught, the Japanese would execute their entire village. Such compassion is quite hard to imagine in this day and age.
Sandakan maintains the Agnes Keith house as a museum. The author of “The Land Below the Wind”, Agnes Keith recorded her life and adventures in Sandakan in the late 1930’s. Her husband was Conservator of Forests for the North Borneo Charter Company prior to the war and they were all swept up in the events as the Japanese invade Borneo and imprisoned as were all allied foreign national. Agnes later wrote “Three Came Home” chronicling their experiences during the war. Agnes Keith’s writing offers an excellent insight into life in Borneo and life with the native Dyak tribal people who saved so many people during the war while assuming great risk to themselves and their families.
After the war, all of the soldier’s graves along the Sandakan Death March were moved to Labuan where the Malaysian Government maintains the Labuan War Cemetery. There are a total of 3,908 graves of which 2,156 are unknown. It is heart wrenching to read the notes of relatives and comrades which are still left on the graves each week. Labuan can be reached either by air or ferry ride.
Labuan Waterfront at the Ferry Terminal
No trip to Sabah would be complete without a visit to Mount Kinabalu, the highest point on Borneo. Mount Kinabalu is believed to be the home to spirits of the native people’s ancestors and consequently is a revered place. You must plan to arrive early as the mountain top is typically enshrouded in cloud cover after 10:00 each morning. There are plenty of clean, inexpensive lodging in the area and is certainly worth spending several days.
Approaching the summit of Mount Kinabalu
Also, worth an outing is a trip to The Northern Tip of Borneo located just north of Kudat. While the formal Northern Tip of the Island is worth seeing, it is the beach just south of the tip that is the jewel. It is the quintessential South Pacific beach, pristine white sand, emerald blue water, devoid of people and nothing for miles except Tommy’s Place, a bar & hotel situated across the street. Unquestionably worth the three hour drive from Kota Kinabalu!
The Beach at the Northern Tip of Borneo
I have been traveling to Kota Kinabalu for over ten years and each trip I take through Asia always includes a healthy