How to Measure, Mark and sew a Full Flare Gown

Correct measurements are very important so the upper body fits well and the flare flows nicely. For the upper body (bodice), take these measurements:

• Bust – Measure around the fullest part of the chest.
• Shape– Measure around the half length/waist line
• Shoulder width – Measure from one shoulder tip to the other.
• Bust point to bust point – Helps with shaping.
• Bodice length – Measure from shoulder down to the half length.
• Armhole. Measure round the armhole.

For the flare, take:

• Waist measurement – This must match the waist line of the bodice. It's advisable to take 2 inches above the navel for the waist measurement.
• Flare length – Measure from the waist line down to the desired gown length.

You will need.

• Crepe or Duchess fabric (light and flowing fabric works best for flares)
• Measuring tape
• Tailor’s chalk
• Scissors
• Pins
• Ruler/ French curve
• Matching thread
• Zipper (if needed for the bodice)

Fold the fabric into two, right sides facing each other, and place it on a flat surface. From the folded edge, mark one quarter of the bust measurement + seam allowance.

• Mark the shoulder width from the top. Mark the neck width and neck depth. I used 3 by 4 inches for the front and 3 by half inches at the back because the front neck is deeper while the back neck is shallow.

• From the top, mark the bodice length. Mark the waist line at the bodice length point.
• If needed, mark simple darts at the waist to help the bodice fit better.
• Add 1–2 inches seam allowance around the bodice.
  For shoulder slant, slant by half or 1 inch to the neckline.

The armhole makes the bodice comfortable and neat. On the bodice, measure ½ inch inward from the shoulder edge. Measure 7–9 inches downward from the shoulder (depending on the armhole measurement). Draw a smooth curved line connecting these two points using your french curve. The curve should be gentle, not sharp.

The flare is cut separately from the bodice. Fold the fabric into four layers (to get a full flare). At the top corner, mark one quarter of the waist measurement. From the same point, mark the full flare length. Draw a small curve for the waist opening. Draw a wide curved line for the hem using the skirt length. The wider the hem curve, the more flowing the flare will be. Add seam allowance at the waist and hem.

Check all measurements again. Confirm that the bodice waist and flare waist are the same size. Pin the fabric properly. Cut slowly and smoothly along the chalk lines. Be extra careful around curves (neckline, armhole, waist curve of the flare).

After cutting the front bodice, fold your fabric into two again and place the front bodice on it, adding extra 2 inches allowance for zipper. Shape the back neckline using 3 by half inches and cut.
Always cut outside the chalk line, never inside.
If unsure, cut slightly bigger. You can adjust during sewing.