“Good Morning Vietnam …”

“So, after 18 hours on the back of an aeroplane, three dumb movies, two plastic meals, six beers and absolutely no sleep, I finally touch down.” – The Beach (2000).

We booked a flight to Vietnam, because, plain and simple, we needed to get completely lost in a foreign country. The best part about this type of holiday is that as far as possible you need to travel light. All you need are your favourite people, a bag of essentials, and a healthy state of mind. You are guaranteed a constant rate of unpredictable adventures and a new perspective on life.
If you seek ancient culture, historical architecture, adventurous and affordable forms of transport (trams, buses, bicycles and boats), ridiculously friendly people, delicious food and coffee, and not being able to understand a word anyone is saying, then make your way to Vietnam.
Travel agents rarely promote self-discovery and dangerous adventure because let’s be honest, there is a difference between a tourist and a traveller. If you want a safe, predictable holiday, you will avoid going to a third-world country nobody really speaks about.
As the captain announced our fifteen minutes to landing, I peered down onto the mountains below, and felt a strange sense of excitement and bewilderment.
“Never get off the boat. Absolutely right! Unless you were going all the way. Kurtz got off the boat. He split from the whole program.” – Apocalypse Now (1979).
Fixated at the back of my head, were images of government officials, pollution at its worst and extreme language barriers. I had no idea what to expect, and after some time, anticipation turned into real excitement. I had finally built up the courage to challenge my own opinions on life and to question “the great western culture”.
Frustration over parking meters, tax legislations, rent, electricity and groceries, became petty and having to trust complete strangers become real. “Where can we exchange money? Please can you say that in English? Where is that street on the map?” and “We missed our flight back to South Africa. We have to work tomorrow. Please help?”
“Man cannot discover new oceans unless he has the courage to lose sight of the shore” – The Beach (2000)
South African currency is not recognised in Vietnam – not on the airport and not in the city. While exchanging South African rand for Vietnamese dong, our currency is checked for counterfeit, followed by an exasperated look of confusion and laughter from the foreign exchange department.
Your money will have a better chance in a game of Monopoly. This is what I called a test of faith, but as soon as we managed to get over the first loophole, it was total freefall from there.
We adopted an anything-goes mentality and were prepared for the inevitable. If you manage to get over that first bump, and onto the main road, you will experience an endless abundance of beauty bustling beneath the surface of chaos.
According to a study entitled: Vietnam’s Progress on Economic Growth and Poverty Reduction, published by the Overseas Development Institute, Kate Bird says, “A decisive political shift came in the late 1980s, enabling significant economic, social and political reform, with improvement in economic conditions and human development.”
The people of Vietnam remain community orientated, and family business is their means of subsistence. Entire families spend time, chattering outside shops, eating and drinking, and welcome locals and foreigners alike to do business with them.
The cities run at a constant rate, with people working at all hours of the day, in a unique pandemonium of structure and commotion. Hooters emanate from vehicles and people chat and laugh as they cross the road or pass you by on the back of a scooter or a tram.
The cheapest and most convenient way to get around in Vietnam is by scooter. The roads cater for all forms of transport (including cows) with minimal visible and applicable road rules.
The cities offer a great place for foreigners and locals to experience traditional food and culture at markets and backpackers, with opportunistic street vendors prowling at every corner.
If you need a break from the city and feel the need for a mountainous beach paradise, hop on a bus to Ha Long Bay for a three day overnight stay, where you will be joined by tourists from around the world.
The trip includes a kayak through canals, squid fishing, delicious on-deck Vietnamese food, and a traditional spring roll cooking class. You will be engulfed by an ocean of endless green and blue, a hike up the mountain or a tour into the ancient caves.
Apocalypse Now (1979) and Good Morning Vietnam (1987) put the war into perspective for me. If you are also a fan, then head out to The Vietnam Military Museum, which includes exhibits labelled in English and Vietnamese with audio-visual displays on the final battle against the French. I was fascinated by the significant involvement of women during the war.
In an article featured on the website World History Connected by Marc Jason Gilbert, entitled: When Heroism is not enough: Three Women Warriors of Vietnam, he says “Most communist-led female soldiers were chiefly assigned to militia units and to logistic, communications, medical and construction work making great contributions, as the ultimate victory of their cause.”
Gilbert notes that female involvement came down to pure honour and sense of responsibility towards their country and their men.
On April 30, 1975, the Vietcong and the People’s Army of Vietnam officially ended the war under formal reunification under the Socialist Republic. There are extensive collections of tanks and aeroplanes and, if you are guessing how the exhibits fit together, have a guide explain all the details to you.
Travel to Da Nang, and you will find the Lady Buddha herself, mounted at the Linh Ung Pagoda in Son Tra. Vietnam focuses primarily on Buddhism as fulfilment through enlightenment. Similar to the historical Buddha, she resembles compassion for all beings, and a great need to alleviate mankind from suffering. Better known as Kwan Yin, the Lady Buddha signifies “the one who hears the cries of the world”.
Hoi An is rich with French-American influence, offering an indulgence of Vietnamese retail therapy at local flea markets and San Francisco-style pizza at the Good Morning Vietnam restaurant. This was our attempt at finding a mini “pit stop” before embarking on our next adventure for a New Year’s celebration in Ho Chi Minh City, formerly known as Saigon.
As the aeroplane descended to Ho Chi Minh City, skyscrapers from below peered up. The city is culturally and economically different to the northern parts of Vietnam. Traditional conical hats and bicycles are replaced with Heineken, Burger King and Mini Cooper adverts across the city.
The city caters specifically for the tourist, who can find places to eat, drink, shop, party and have a back and foot massage while you’re at it – all at affordable prices.
Book a trip through French colonial architecture or go for a quality tour at a minimal cost at the War Remnants Museum, Jade Emperor Pagoda and the Mekong Delta.
Ditch the anxiety, book the flight and go into the chaos with an open mind and a keen sense of wonder. Each aspect of Vietnam has something new to offer. If you seek inspiration and a break from life as you know it, prepare to be challenged and pushed to new horizons.
The country is rich with ancient culture and beauty, and the city is packed with everything you need for an unforgettable adventure. Your journey will be unique and different, and I hope this article has inspired you to go out and create some of your own amazing memories.
“And me? I still believe in paradise. But now at least I know it’s not someplace you can look for. Because it’s not where you go. It’s how you feel for a moment in your life when you are part of something. And if you find that moment, it lasts forever.” – The Beach (2000).