S. Salvatore — Corte del Milione — S. Giovanni Grisostomo

Walking along the Merceria means moving through one of Venice’s most historic and vibrant arteries. Between the constant flow of people and centuries-old facades rises the tall apse of San Salvatore, one of the most important examples of Renaissance religious architecture in the city.

San Salvatore — Renaissance Power and Artistic Legacy

The church reflects centuries of artistic evolution. Masters such as Spavento, the Lombardi family, Sansovino, Scamozzi, and Longhena all contributed to its construction and decoration.

Inside, several masterpieces define its importance:

• The memorial to Queen Catherine Cornaro in the right transept
• The tomb of Doge Francesco Venier by Sansovino, a landmark of late Renaissance sculpture
• Titian’s Annunciation and Transfiguration, painted when the artist was nearly ninety
• Christ at Emmaus, attributed over time to Giovanni Bellini, Carpaccio, and Benedetto Diana

Leaving the church into Campo San Salvatore reveals traces of daily medieval life. A water trough and a fig tree once stood here, where horses were tied after equestrian traffic was banned along the Merceria in 1287.

Corte del Milione — The Legacy of the Polo Family

Following Merceria Due Aprile and crossing Ponte dell’Olio leads to Corte del Milione.

This area once housed the Polo family residence. From here, in 1271, a seventeen-year-old Marco departed with his uncles on a journey to the East.

When they returned decades later, dressed as Tartar travelers, even their relatives failed to recognize them. According to tradition, they proved their identity by cutting open their worn travel garments and revealing hidden treasures — precious jewels gathered during years of exploration.

Fragments of stonework still embedded in nearby buildings are believed to be remains of the original Polo residence.

San Giovanni Grisostomo — A Hidden Artistic Treasure

Continuing toward San Giovanni Grisostomo reveals a church of elegant proportions and remarkable artistic value.

Highlights include:

• The altarpiece by Giovanni Bellini (1513), his last signed work
• The high altar painting by Sebastiano del Piombo
• Renaissance sculptural reliefs by Tullio Lombardo

Outside, the campo still preserves a refined Renaissance well-head.

Toward the Rialto

From here, the route naturally returns toward the Rialto Bridge and the pier along the Rio del Carbon, completing a walk where art, history, and memory meet at every step.

History lives in details. Venice reveals them to those who walk slowly.