MEN IN SUIT | 西裝與時尚

Hi Steemit friends!

Let’s talk about the movie fashion and styling again. Recently everyone is talking about the movie Kingsman- The Golden Circle. Frankly, the first episode of Kingsman was one of my favourite movie in 2016. It really was a crazy movie. Ok, let’s move on to the fashion part and try not to be a spoiler.

今天來談談電影與時尚。最近上映的熱門電影《皇家特工-金圈子》有看嗎？兩星期前我去電影院看了，雖然我覺得第一集比較好看，但這電影不論在拍攝、劇情或造型都是非常吸引的！好吧先入正題免得急不住劇透了。

(Image from google)

An English gentleman is always dressed in decent suit with well-groomed hair. This is the main idea of the styling for this movie. The signature look for this episode of course is the tangerine velvet smoking jacket worn by the Eggsy. A velvet smoking jacket is a vintage item, but with the popping tangerine colour, it makes the overall look very modern and trendy. We can enjoy the fighting scene of the actors in their suits throughout the movie. Really a fantastic combination, fighting and formal suit, isn’t it? We can see how it really makes noise when Mr. Porter crossover with the costume designer of the movie, Arianne Phillips to launch a collection, bringing the items in the movie to the store.

英國紳士常常身穿整齊西裝，頭髮理得貼服。這種造型也是電影的主要形象。本集的亮點造型想必是男主角Eggsy穿的橘色套裝，是天鵝絨的復古套裝，但橘色不但令主角穿上後特別題眼，更為造型增加不少喜感現代感。看著一群主角穿著西裝的打鬥場面真是賞心悅目。而從Mr. Potter與電影服裝設計師Arianne Phillips聯手打造的Kingsman系列產品就可以看出這電影在時尚圈造成了多大迴響了。

It is generally people involve in some industries or jobs wear suit daily, like a solicitor or a broker. In fact, more and more people wear suit or include the suiting elements in their style. So what is the detail you know about men’s suiting? I have chosen two elements to talk about today:

以前覺得通常是某特定行業/工作的人才會穿正裝西裝，比如律師或股票經紀。其實現在愈來愈多人會穿西裝，或者把西裝的元素加入搭配。那關於西裝你知道多少呢？我們來說說兩個元素吧。

/Lapel /

（https://www.pinterest.com/pin/389491067756073190/）
For the lapel, we can usually see three types, namely, Notch, Peak and Shawl lapel. (Left to right)
Sometimes, the lapel plays an important role being the highlight of the whole jacket. Designers make the look stands out by applying tonal or contrast colour / panels with different materials (like wool with leather).

西裝外套的翻領通常有三款Notch, Peak 和Shawl形的翻領。（圖左至右）翻領在整個西裝造型佔一個很重要的位置，設計師選用不同顏色/材質的布料拼出造型亮點。常見的有羊毛跟皮夾的配搭。

/The Jacket/

(https://www.pinterest.com/pin/573505333788982051/)
The above are the different styles of the jacket, I personally think that the double breasted style looks so cool. Which you can see the leading characters frequently wearing this style in the movie.

以上是不同的外裝款式，個人最喜歡的就是雙扣款，也就是在電影裡常看到主角們穿的一款。

I cannot introduce you a famous local tailor who can make good fit suit, it is always the fate meeting one suitable tailor, just ask someone who has a dozens of suits at home, they can tell the good and bad. However I can share with you some of my favourite designers who create stunning suiting fashion looks.

其實我沒辦法介紹本地有名的西裝師傅給大家啦，我覺得這是一種緣分。（當然我也是只陪過別人去造西裝，自己沒經驗）但你可以問問常造西裝的朋友，他們一定至少能告訴你那家別去哈哈。但我可以分享一下一些我喜歡的設計師，他們以西裝為概念，創造了很多超級時尚的衣服！

/Thom Browne/

（http://www.thefashionspot.com/runway-news/675243-thom-browne-mens-fall-2016-runway/?fullpage=1#/slide/1）
Men’s Fall 2016
Recently you can see those crazy runway ideas from his latest shows, but you can still get less dramatic items from his store. All well made with great suiting fabrics.

/Ann Demeulemeester/

（https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2015-menswear/ann-demeulemeester/slideshow/collection#16）
ann-demeulemeester SS15 men’s wear
OHHHHHH! You know what, it is my dream look, all shows of Ann Demeulemeester are amazing before 2015. Before the signature hat. (?)

(https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2014-ready-to-wear/ann-demeulemeester/slideshow/collection#23
SS14 RTW)

/Yohji Yamamoto/

(https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2018-menswear/yohji-yamamoto/slideshow/collection#9)
Yohji Yamamoto SS18 Men’s wear
No doubt he is the father of deconstruction, the keywords of the latest trend for menswear are: loose fit, grunge, layering, which are the styles you can find from his very old collections. So, the style do transcends time.

See you guys around. 下回見！

Cheers!