Visit the Farmer's Market in Paraty, Brazil
In Paraty Friday is a good day to go to market!! I want to bring you a bit of a whirlwind photo tour. I've been regularly visiting this market for the last two years, and am often scribbling notes about the plants for sale or interviewing stall holders as part of my doctoral research on wild and semi-domesticated food plants and people's motivations for collecting and consuming them.
Various regular stall-holders
This is Rui and Senhor Eraldo. It's actually from a few months back this photo, check out the tucum palm fruit (Bactris setosa) also known as coco-natal (the Christmas coconut) which is a Christmas speciality. Also check-out the taioba leaves, do you remember that from my last post?
The stalls are full of home-made preserves and cheeses, free-range eggs and fresh produce, much of which has often been grown by the stall-holder themselves.
Check out the two litre bottle of caldo de cana (sugar cane juice), absolutely delicious.
Various local produce (and produce from Cunha & Minas Gerais)
Cupuaçu (Theobroma grandiflorum) and breadfruit (Artocarpus altilis). Cupuaçu is a much celebrated nutritious fruit, it is related to cacao. The outer cask is woody and thick with a fuzzy outside, and inside the pulp is white (surrounding seeds not unlike cocoa), with a rich fruity smell, like a mix of chocolate and pineapple, although it tastes more like a pear.
The local, often organic, produce is delicious, here we see toasted peanuts, various varieties of bananas (here you can see 'prata'), potatoes...
There are several honey producers in the region, some also gets imported from nearby Cunha or the neighbouring state Minas Gerais.
Wild turmeric, or açafrão (Curcuma aromatica) is grown locally and sold fresh or as a dried ground powder.
Pinhão are great big pine nuts from a type of pine tree (Araucaria angustifolia) that are common in Cunha, a town that is only about an hour away, but at a much higher altitude and which has a totally different climate from Paraty, much more Mediterranean-style, drier and colder, with forests of pine trees. Very different to the moist Atlantic rainforests of Paraty. You can boil these or toast them, very tasty!
Peito de moça (Zanthoxylum rhoifolium), I want to find out more about this variety of funky giant citrus fruit.
Cará-moela (Dioscorea bulbifera), a type of yam that has aerial bulbils.
Abiu (Pouteria caimito; native to the Amazon).
Noni (Morinda citrifolia; english names: great morinda, Indian mulberry, noni, beach mulberry, and cheese fruit), from southeast Asia and Australasia and now naturalised in much of the world. Has all sorts of medicinal, drink, food and dye uses.
Paraty has lots of types of banana.
Can you spot the fresh cacao / cocoa pods (Theobroma cacao)?
Various flours and preserves
Here you can see dried cacao nibs, ground cacao, and also little sachets of urucum (Bixa orellana). Urucum/coloral is used as a food colouring and flavouring, and is also well-known as being used by indigenous peoples as body paint.
This is the palm heart of pupunha (Bactris gasipaes), a type of palm from the Amazon. Unlike the local native palms the palm heart does not oxidise in contact with air and also it is extraordinarily productive in terms of the fruit it produces. It also matures much more rapidly than the local jussara palm (Euterpe edulis), so it is very attractive for local producers to grow it.
Here are the fruit of the pupunha jarred and conserved.
Here are the fruit of the pupunha dried and turned to flour.
Dona Elizabeth sells many conserves. On the top shelf is a load of manioc flour (this gets sprinkled on top of beans during meals), on the lower shelf is an array of jarred chilis, many of which are malagueta (Capsicum sp.).
Jarred red-jambo fruit (Syzygium malaccense), actually originates from Southeast Asia, has a lovely delicate aromatic taste.
Here is conserved jackfruit (Artocarpus heterophyllus). This tree is native to parts of South and Southeast Asia, spreads rapidly and is very productive, and is often regarded as a pest, often it's fruit is left to go to waste. I might blog another time about the potential of using it's fruit green.
Crafts
The fair is also a place for art and craft. Here we can see the woody cask of the cupuaçu being decorated and sold as art.
Dona Maria sells her own basketry, made from various types of vines and reeds and so on (that's another ethnobotanists job!).
These sponges are actually made from the fibrous tissue skeleton of luffa gourds.
Seedlings
The fair is also a place for buying various seedlings ('mudas').
Many of them are plants that are normally considered to be wild species such as this plantain (Plantago australis), which is valued for food and also medicine. The line between wild and domesticated is not always so obvious.
Sin é
That's it, a whirl-wind tour of the local market. I hope you enjoyed seeing some of the typical produce that is traded locally here. Of course Paraty also has a couple of supermarkets and many people prefer to use them over the local markets. Saying that, the market still has a steady pool of loyal local customers. It's a shame that more tourists aren't directed here. Many people say that the local prefecture seems to prioritise tourism as the main industry of Paraty, to the neglect of agriculture, and to the neglect of the potential of linking tourism and agriculture. As you can see, there are all sorts of interesting local produce that could be lots of interest to visitors, never mind the potential for farm visits and vivências.
Declaration: All the above photos are my own.
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Hi, I loved your post! Can't wait to visit PAraty and the market. Can you please post a googlemaps reference so I can find it? I tried searching for it on google and couldn't find an adress. Thanks
Hello! It's here: -23.221544, -44.719961
It's just to the right of the main bus station. Quite an ugly building really, the town council could do with spending a bit of money on it to support local agriculture. Anyhoo, it's a charming place to visit once you don't mind a few rough edges!
Thank you!!
Did you visit in the end??
We arrive in paraty march 12th, can't wait! I hope it's open at 2-3PM
If you're around the whole week try to go on the Friday in the morning as there's a few extra stall holders on that day and a bit more life about the place. How long will you be staying in Paraty? Maybe I can recommend a few things to do. I'm actually back in Europe now, or otherwise I'd offer to meet up!
The market is open every day until about 3 or 4. Some days have more stall holders than others. UNfortunately the Paraty authorities throw all their money into a few limited tourism channels and aren't very supportive of local agriculture. It seems to be very short-shighted and not very in tune with the times as I am sure initiatives such as farm to table and farm visits and experiences etc would be very popular with a certain sector of the tourists who are seeking authentic experiences.
Thank you! We'll be staying in Trindade 5 days, then Ilha Grande and then back to Paraty for just 1 night before we head back home. You've been very helpful!
Oh I love Trinidade, always feels like I'm on holidays when I go there. Hope you try out the surfing. I never actually made it to Ilha Grande but everyone says it's amazing. Have fun! x
Hey Kate.
I was wondering if you are still working out of paraty?
A friend and I are planning on reviving the old resort on Praia vermelha, with the restaurant part being my responsibility, so I would love if you some day had time for a talk or even the possibility of taking a walk and teaching me a bit about what you have learned of wild food here in the area, so I can use it in the kitchen.
Kind regards.
Hello. I'm afraid I'm over in England at the moment. I can recommend Jorge Ferreira of Paraty if you want someone to take you out and teach you about wild food plants, he's very knowledgeable and friendly (but also very in demand so payment would be expected). Sounds like you've got a very exciting project on the go!
Amo s2 essa feira da genteei da terra! Tudo de verdade :)
Ugh...my head was swimming in the Steemit ocean...so good to come back to earth and land on such shores of plenitude...I love my feed!
~smiles~ and a li'l sweetleaf
Abundance is the word, what a shame more people don't plant food, sometimes it seems like current systems of wage slavery only sow scarcity.
Hey Kate, just read your intro , nice work, and very cool I must say. My brother, @roundoar03 was just in Ireland for St. Patricks Day. He has written some really cool posts about it that I bet would take you back. I also have a love affair with Brazil. Been 4 times and it just gets better every time. Following now to see more of your adventures :) Welcome and Steem on!
Thanks intothewild!
Great market. Makes me miss Brasil so much. And Cupuacu! So delicious. What are you doing there? Are you living in Paraty?
For the long version read here: https://steemit.com/introduceyourself/@kate-m/bom-dia-from-an-irish-ethnobotanist-in-brazil-wild-food-amazing-nature-hippy-souls-shamanic-shenanigans
Yes I've been here two years trying to do PhD fieldwork about the wild food scene (wild plants). I'm going back at the end of September, already miss it!
I would love to meet you one day!
Where do you live??
In Germany right now, came back from 3 years in the States, mostly Van Life. It's weird to be back. Everything is very german over here :D
Ah ha ha, I do hear that about Germany!
I've met some very cool Germans this year, all into vanlife/tiny homes.
Last night I stayed up doodling plans for my dream camper. I'll have to do them up so as to be legible to someone else and see what you think. Idea to use a hightop lwb Fiat Ducato as a base, maybe if managed to save lots of money get a nearly new one and convert it to 4x4 before conversion. Have a notion to put a winch lifted bed sideways in the back that sits down onto a dinette area when being used, and hugs up against the ceiling during the day (no need to make bed, just hide it with press of a button!). I was thinking to buy a tiny Citroen Berlingo to facilitate overnights due to work and festivals etc, while saving up for something bigger (go live with the parents for a while in Ireland -I'm so sick of paying rent).
Maybe we will meet, not unimaginable. If I got van up and running I would probably go to Germany.
Haha, live with the parents again, too? That is what I am doing at the moment. It is possible, but it can scratch on the self esteem a little bit. I like what you are saying about your van plans. We never had a lot of comfort in the van, only a bed (huge) and some room for stuff :) It was an old ford econoline, one of the really long ones. we had a campstove for outside use which was very helpful. As you can tell we had more like a bed on wheels than a tiny home. Which is fine in summer , you don't want to be in your vehicle during the day anyways. But when its raining or cold it would be nice to be prepared a little bit better. A little corner to sit on a table probably helps, and if you can boil some water for a hot tea inside, even better :) Beeing able to stand up in the van:GREAT! And insulation is top! It all depends on how much money and time you have got to put inside. Me and my husband just bought a spacewagon and it's just fine for sleeping for a couple of nights :) But I have to say: after years of not having an own bathroom and some indoor space to run around, I am enjoying the shit out of it right now. Greetings to you in brasil! I worked at a cocoa research center some years ago, well i did my internship there.
I quite fancy being home with the old folks for a bit, being away for so long it'll be good to reconnect with family, and it's actualy not so weird for Irish families to be close like that. They've just moved into a new house so I'm quite keen to help them get a polytunnel up and some raised beds and get the ball rolling on growing some vegetables. After all the initial hard work is done it shouldn't be too hard for them to keep it ticking over. If it gets too much I can always escape to stay with friends in the south west! That's some hard core van living right there with your bed on wheels! That would be so grim in the Irish clime!!! I on the otherhand quite like my comfort, I was looking yesterday at mini wood burning stoves, how cosy would that be!?
Oooooh...the last couple of days I was chatting with a mate about my van plans and ended up doing a semi-legible van layout using some very dodgy photoshop skills - what do you think of the concept? All pie in the sky but the day-dreaming keeps me happy.
Ha, I have a steemit blog post to do on a cacau harvest when I find time - you'll enjoy the photos!
Brazzeuuu