Momio Restaurant in Florence
Via Pisana has become, over the years, a road with a high rate of catering, especially in the last stretch, which connects it to Borgo San Frediano. Everything started with the first city brew pub, then the arrival of a local sold out every night such as the Fuor d' Acqua, pizzerias, also fashionable for different reasons, wine bars, restaurants. Then, in the middle of everything, there has always been a place with an adventurous life: it was the Florentine window of "Il paese dei Campanelli" by Barberino Val d' Elsa, the Russian restaurant, a succession of managements that seem to find peace today: it opened Momio, by Marco Lagrimino and Nadia Moller, a couple in life and work. After the hotel school in Viterbo, a lot of experience in London, then in Florence, he worked with Vito Mollica and Entiana Ozmenzeza, before embarking on this new adventure. As soon as you enter a few tables and the bar counter: there you will be served a restricted menu for lunch, with some dishes of an international tradition, among all the "Eggs Benedict", that make so much novel by Agata Christie, while the kitchen that most represents their mood is the one of the evening. In the afternoon, there is a way to stop to drink a tea, perhaps sip a distillate: the idea would be to make a multifunctional place that changes depending on the moment. As soon as the restaurant was opened, the critics' success was immediate, with tones of great exaltation, reminiscent of what happened in the past years with other chefs, then burned on the altar of vanity, not the personal one. Marco has a character that is very reminiscent of a "vertical hombre", a lot of substance and little fuzz, and in the dishes he expresses himself according to rigorous concepts of attention, cleanliness and method. The menu often changes, some dishes will not come back, others will become classics, but what matters is to understand the style of the proposal. the menu is linked to a limited proposal, four dishes for each course, with the main ingredient listed in the title. The red onion with rice and pecorino cheese is a daring construction, with cheese ice cream as well, contrasting flavors and textures that are perfect but more correct than exciting. More intriguing are the red prawns with Gin Evra, goats and dill, with more intense and prolonged scents. In a kitchen that also seeks consensus in shapes and colours, to review the presentation of halibut, with celeriac, yuzu, grapefruit, avocado and hazelnut celeriac, on non-attractive beige tones, with a balanced and pleasant taste. The pig's cheek with its own jus, served with onion and spelt cream, suffers the same problem of colours, with the meat cooked perfectly, with a taste well amalgamated to the rest of the components. The desserts offered by Sarah Frasson will conclude with the desserts: an excellent choice of yoghurt, pistachio, cherries and black cherry liqueur. The wine list must find form and harmony: well that there is no encyclopedic choice, but must be more thought out and built according to the gastronomic proposal. Courtesy and friendly service. Appetizers from 13 to 15 euro, first 15 euro, second from 16 to 20, desserts 9 euro.