Asphalt Driveway Bids, What to Check Before Work Starts

Cracks in an asphalt driveway feel minor at first. Then water finds the opening, the base softens, and the crack grows. A patch hides the problem for a season, then the edge breaks again. Many homeowners end up paying twice because the bid focused on surface appearance and skipped drainage and base work.

In the Bay Area and the North Bay, driveways face mixed stress. Some homes sit on hills where runoff cuts across the driveway. Coastal fog keeps shaded sections damp longer. Inland heat in summer dries the surface fast and pulls oils out of older asphalt. Heavy vehicles, delivery vans, and moving trucks add load that a thin section cannot handle. A good paving plan starts with a site check and a written scope that matches what your driveway needs.

Start with a simple driveway assessment
Walk the driveway slowly and write down what you see.
• Cracks: thin hairline cracks, wide alligator cracking, or long seams near edges
• Depressions: low spots that hold water after rain or irrigation
• Raveling: loose aggregate, gritty surface, or bare spots
• Edge breakup: crumbling along the lawn side or near a gravel border
• Oil stains: dark, soft zones where asphalt feels tacky in warm weather
• Drainage paths: where water flows during rain, plus where it sits

Then measure the driveway and take photos from the street, from the garage, and from each side. Photos help you compare bids later because you will match each scope to the same problem areas.

Drainage drives long term results
Water weakens asphalt by attacking the base. If a crew lays new asphalt over a wet, soft base, the surface fails early. Ask every bidder to describe drainage in plain terms.
• Where will water go after the project
• Will the crew regrade to move water away from the garage and the home
• Will they add a swale, a channel drain, or a changed slope at the street
• Will they adjust irrigation heads that spray onto the asphalt
• Will they address runoff that crosses the driveway on a hillside lot

In many Bay Area neighborhoods, yards slope toward driveways. That slope sends water and silt onto the pavement. A scope that ignores grading often leads to water pooling near the garage door.

Choose the right approach, repair, overlay, or full replacement
Driveway work falls into three broad paths. The right one depends on base condition.

Targeted repair and crack sealing
This path fits driveways with a stable base and limited cracking.
• Crack filling in narrow cracks
• Crack routing and sealing in long, moving cracks
• Patching localized failures, such as potholes near a gate

Ask how the crew prepares cracks before filling. A quick smear of material on top often fails because debris blocks bond.

Overlay
An overlay adds a new surface layer over existing asphalt. It works when the base and most of the existing mat remain stable. It fails when the driveway shows widespread alligator cracking, deep depressions, or edge breakup driven by base failure.

Ask these questions for overlays.
• Will the crew mill high spots or fix low spots before paving
• Will they reinforce edges that lack support
• What thickness will they install, and where will it vary
• How will they handle transitions at the garage threshold and sidewalk

Full removal and replacement
This path fits driveways with widespread failure and soft base. It costs more up front, yet it often avoids repeated patches.

Ask what the scope includes below the surface.
• Excavation depth
• Base rock type and thickness
• Compaction method and passes
• Proof roll or other checks for soft zones
• Edge support details

In older areas with mixed fill, the base often varies. A good plan calls out how the crew handles soft pockets rather than hoping they disappear under fresh asphalt.

Stamped asphalt and decorative options, set expectations
Stamped asphalt aims for a patterned look while keeping asphalt performance. Decorative work still needs base, drainage, and compaction. Ask for clear answers on:
• Where the pattern will start and stop
• How the crew will align the pattern with edges and curves
• How the finish will handle tire turning near the garage
• What maintenance schedule the finish needs

Decorative choices should not replace functional details like proper slope and strong edges.

Sealcoating, timing matters
Sealcoating protects the surface from oxidation and light water intrusion. It does not fix structural problems. Apply it at the wrong time and you trap oils or moisture, which leads to peeling and tracking.

Ask these questions.
• What condition qualifies a driveway for sealcoating
• What prep steps they take, cleaning, crack work, and patch curing time
• How long you should keep cars off the surface
• What the plan is for shaded, damp sections in coastal and foggy areas

If a bid offers sealcoating as the main fix for deep cracking, push back and ask about base and drainage instead.

Build a bid comparison sheet that forces detail
When you collect bids, use the same checklist for each one. A service list on a report page, such as the one for Jackson's Paving & Equipment Rentals, Inc., often names common scope items like crack filling, patching, paving, sealing, and stamping, which helps you ensure each bidder covers the same core steps.

Use this homeowner comparison sheet.
Site and drainage
• Slope plan and water path description
• Low spot correction method
• Edge support plan

Base work
• Excavation depth and base rock plan
• Compaction method, equipment type, and number of passes
• Handling of soft spots and old patches

Asphalt work
• Thickness target and where it changes
• Joint details at the street, garage, and sidewalks
• Hand work details at tight edges and curves

Surface protection
• Crack sealing scope and materials
• Sealcoating plan and timing, if included
• Striping or marking, if the bid covers parking areas

Logistics and protection
• Access during the job, including walk paths to the home
• Protection for garage doors, fences, and landscaping
• Cleanup plan for loose aggregate and dust

Closeout and care
• When you will walk on it and drive on it
• Watering or cooling steps in hot weather, if needed
• First month rules, avoid sharp turns, avoid heavy loads, and avoid parking in one spot for long stretches

Common homeowner mistakes that lead to disputes
Avoid these pitfalls before you sign.
• You accept a one line scope that does not mention base work or drainage
• You compare bids that include different thickness levels without noticing
• You skip written details on edges, since edge failure often starts first
• You assume a patch and seal plan will solve alligator cracking
• You forget access constraints, which change equipment choices and crew time

Ask the contractor to mark the plan on your driveway with chalk during the walk through. That step turns a conversation into a shared understanding.

After the work, do simple checks
You do not need special tools to review the result.
• Look for smooth transitions at the garage and sidewalk
• Look for consistent thickness at edges, not thin feathering into soil
• Check that water runs off and does not sit in low spots
• Confirm the crew cleaned loose material from adjacent paths
• Note any areas where tire turning might scuff the surface during the first weeks

Then follow a basic care plan.
• Keep vehicles off until the crew’s stated cure time ends
• Avoid sharp turns while parked, especially in warm weather
• Rinse away mud and leaves that hold moisture in shaded areas
• Adjust sprinklers so spray does not hit the asphalt

Driveway paving feels straightforward, yet long term performance depends on what happens below the surface and where the water goes. A detailed bid, clear drainage plan, and base compaction details help you choose a scope that matches your property and avoids repeated repairs.
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